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Clinical study on the effects of a cosmetic product on dermal extracellular matrix components using a high-resolution multiphoton tomograph

: Bazin, R.; Flament, F.; Colonna, A.; Harzic, R. le; Bückle, R.; Piot, B.; Laize, F.; Kaatz, M.; König, K.; Fluhr, J.W.


Skin research and technology 16 (2010), Nr.3, S.305-310
ISSN: 0909-752X
ISSN: 1397-1344
ISSN: 1600-0846
Fraunhofer IBMT ()

Background/purpose: The aim of this study was to demonstrate the effects of selected plant extracts in a cosmetic cream on the dermal network components after a 3-month treatment using an in vivo multiphoton tomographic device. Methods: Twenty-four Caucasian women aged between 45 and 65 applied randomly a cosmetic emulsion B containing active ingredients (soy and jasmine) twice a day on one arm and its vehicle A (without active ingredients) on the other arm during 3 months. Measurements were performed on the internal side of the forearm before starting the treatment (T0), after 4 week (T4) and 12 weeks (T12) treatment. Measurements consisted in a multi-layers acquisitions using a multiphoton tomograph with subcellular resolution. Optical sections (about 6 m thick) were recorded from 0 to about 200 m using two different wavelengths: 760 and 820 nm. To compare the series of images and obtain an objective quantification of the signal of second harmonic generation (SHG) and autofluorescence, the method used consisted in taking the integrated brightness of an image (same rectangular area for all images) as a measure of the signal. Following this step a ratio between brightness of images from the area treated with cream A or B and brightness of untreated area was calculated and used as an assessment of treatment efficacy. The parameter used for statistical analysis (variance analysis) is the difference before and after 12 weeks of treatment by either cream A or B of the signal ratios calculated in the upper dermis (118-130 m) and those from a deeper region of the upper dermis (165-178 m). Results: Signals (autofluorescence+SHG) of extracellular matrix do not change significantly with time (weeks 0, 4 and 12) when cream A (vehicle with no active ingredient) is applied. Treatment with cream B results in an enhancement in the signal level of extracellular matrix at week 12. The comparison of signals, in both areas (118-130 m and 160-178 m), show an higher increase in the de